Choosing your suit jacket linings are one of the most enjoyable parts of creating a custom suit.
The Tumblr presence of Qwearfashion.com, a Boston-based style blog for queer women, trans people, and the dappers who love them.
For modeling oppurtunies, email Sonny: email@example.com
Choosing your suit jacket linings are one of the most enjoyable parts of creating a custom suit.
Since their launch last year, Kipper Clothiers has grown demand for designing masculine suits for women and trans individuals in the Bay Area. They are now reaching out to the community for help building their own store, and are offering generous gifts in to thank you for your help! Check out the video below and click if you want to help fund this exciting space for the LGBTQ community. Go To Kickstarter
Anonymous asked: Hi, as a petite (I am 5’4” with 110-115 lbs) female with androgynous style, I’m having a hard time finding a suit that would fit me perfectly. I crave skinny crisp look rather than baggy look. I was thinking maybe I could get a three-piece suit set from topman and get it altered/tailored to fit me better, but I’m still not sure and I’m running out of time! Do you have any recommendations or any tips?
Courtney says: The Topman option is always excellent. Depending on the suit you get you may not need to have it tailored, but tailoring will of course always enhance the look of any suit. I love the fit of Topman vests. I have also had great luck with H&M suits. They are reasonably priced, slim, short enough in the jacket, and go down to small enough sizes to fit my shoulders (I am a size 34 in jackets). I do have to hem the pants, but once hemmed they fit wonderfully. The sleeves also need to be taken in sometimes, but that is easy work for most tailors, and for your height possibly not necessary. I am also generally fond of the look of J. Crew suiting, though I have never worn it myself, and their sizes tend to run slim and small enough to fit more petite people.
If you are looking for more of a staple option for work or something of that sort, and have more money to spend on something higher quality, there are a plethora of new *menswear suiting options available, such as Kipper Clothiers, Tomboy Tailors, and Saint Harridan. A custom or tailored suit will always look better on you than one off the rack, and even Saint Harridan’s OTR suiting will be more likely to fit better on FAAB, trans*, and genderqueer bodies. Indochino is a great custom menswear clothier, friendly to queers and reviewed by Sonny in this post. A good tailor will also be able to alter a classic menswear suit from places like Bachrach or Jos. A. Bank, though tailoring has been definitely necessary for me in regard to those sorts of suits. I have, however, experienced excellent customer service from both places, surprisingly enough.
Good luck! Send us a submission when you’re suited up — we’d love to see what you come up with!
Kyle (left) and Erin (right), Kipper Clothier’s founders
Author | Sonny
For generations, men’s suit makers have used a formula that provides the sizing for a suit from a few simple measurements. But for female and queer bodies, these numbers aren’t so simple. The new custom clothing company Kipper Clothiers believes they have developed a solution to get a great fit for a variety of bodies.
I had the pleasure of speaking with Kipper’s founders Kyle and Erin. I knew Kyle previously through Tumblr — she submitted to Qwear a few times and had quite the presence as a dapper queer, known for her work at J.Crew. So I was pleased to see that she’s now directly serving our community with Kipper.
Kipper works individually with each client to get to know all aspects of their styling interests. When each client walks into their studio, they are met with over 600 suiting fabric swatches and over 300 shirting swatches. Vibrant swatches ranging from worsted wools to cashmere/silk blends are displayed in the center of the room immediately demanding attention. They take a total of 36 measurements to get the suit the right hang. Kipper told me that as they get to know their clients, things like posture and body language give clues towards what that client is looking for. I can see from the photos how the suits just fit like a glove.
Kipper delivers what they call The Put-Together Promise: a guarantee of premium service that begins with educating clientele on proper fit and styling advice. The experienced stylists at Kipper Clothiers act as guides through the finishing touches and the finer details of a polished look.
Getting married in California? To celebrate the repeal of prop 8, Kipper is also offering a Kipper Commitment Package, which includes a reserved number of free fittings and custom shirts, suits, and tuxedos at wholesale cost to queers getting married in California. For more information about the Kipper Commitment Package, email Kyle and Erin at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Kipper is also holding a pop-up event in San Francisco on Dec 3rd. Visit their website for more info.
Photography by Scott R. Kline
LK Weiss in a suit by Saint Harridan
Author | Blake
Are blue suits more versatile than black suits? What about charcoal suits? Does color even matter? Recently we got a question from one of you regarding what color to get a first suit:
“I’m going to be buying my first suit, but don’t know what color I should get for the most use. I can’t decide between navy or a charcoal grey. I’m leaning toward charcoal because I love to wear colorful shirts and the charcoal seems to be more flexible. On the other hand, a navy jacket would pair well with chinos and a colorful shirt. I can’t afford two suits, yet, so I want to make the first one count.”
Here are a couple of tips to think about before deciding on the color of your first suit!
To ensure that you will get the most use out of your suit, consider where you will be wearing it most. If you’ll be wearing your suit mostly at work, there are a couple of considerations to take into account. A black suit is always formal. Moreover, it is near impossible to dress down a black suit. Unless your work calls for black tie, a blue, grey/charcoal, or brown suit will be more versatile. Let’s break it down:
Every color suit is a blank canvas, however, each color lends itself to certain color combinations, seasons, and dress codes.
Black suit: Always formal; Looks best with black accessories.
Blue suit (and by blue I mean navy blue): Can wear for all seasons; goes with almost all color shirts/ties/all that jazz. Great for separates —wear blazer one day, trousers another.
Brown/tan suit: Primarily a fall and winter suit; looks best with neutral accessories (shirts, ties, pocket squares); Can be dressed casual or formal.
Grey/charcoal suits: Second in versatility to a blue suit; great for all seasons. Suit separates not as versatile (gray pants and blazer don’t go with as many color combinations as blue separates); can be dressed casual or formal.
Outside profession, there are no logistical concerns that you should worry about in regards to color. As mentioned above, if you’re not going to wear your suit at black tie functions, the color of your suit is up to your personal style. If I had to choose, I would get the navy suit. As this inqwearer said, a navy blazer goes with just about anything. It can be dressed up or down. I can’t think of a color that looks bad with blue, so shirts shouldn’t be a problem. Also, navy blue suits look great with both black and brown shoes (charcoal not so much).
I leave you with one amazing picture of something you can do with a navy suit jacket:
I see perfectly tailored jackets, floral patterns, bright colors, attention to detail, danyisms, and preppiness. Also, to the anon asking about combining make-up and masculine clothing? All the yes.
Jalan and Jibril’s photoshoot for Pocket Square Clothing (from: pocketsquareclothing.com)
This is Adrian, winner of the TSB May giveaway (from: tsbmen.com)
Travis Gumbs and Joshua Kissi at New York Fashion Week (from: streetetiquette.com)
What can I say… she’s just perfect (from: citizencouture.com)
I’m not sure how this photo happened; it may have just gotten captured on the street. But continuing along with my interest in primary colors and preppy styles. (from: stuckeywriter.com)
The fact that anyone would even consider pairing these two colors together, and making them work, is unthinkable. However, the Piet Mondrian phone is clearly a part of the outfit as well. This is model Torben King, and the photo was first spotted on Closet Freaks.
The creator of this outfit said he was inspired by a rainy day to mix grays, play with texture and add a pop of color. (from: dressedtoill.com)
So what do you think of these outfits? Would you dare to be this bold? Or are you just waiting for that perfect thrift find? - Sonny
Exciting news! Indochino loved my post so much that they invited us to come enjoy wine and fittings with them on their final day in Boston, Monday, April 15! Come join me from 5 to 7pm to get fitted, drink wine, and hang out.
Indochino also wanted me to clarify that they only make traditional men’s suits, (boxy, padded shoulders, etc.) and not traditional women’s, even though they will fit them to anyone. If you are looking for a more androgynous look or for something that hugs curves, they might not be for you. (But you should still come hang out with us anyway!)
I can’t wait!!
See you then, ‘mos
Topman has amazing suit colors and their sizes will fit all the tiny queermos! - Sonia
Teal Cotton Skinny Suit, at Topman for $400
I was blown away by Indochino's beautiful Traveling Tailor shop in Boston that I visited with Fit For a Femme last week. It was like the Apple store of suits. Priced in the $400 range, they offer the softest fabrics and choices of lapel style, number of buttons, pocket style (note: pocket flaps can always be tucked in. May as well get them and have the option!), linings, rounded vests, and contrast button stitching, to name a few!
Here are some photos from their shop, all courtesy of Fit For a Femme! The femme’s wife M got fitted for a suit as well, so stay tuned for part 2 of the Indochino experience on FFAF’s blog.
The traveling tailor is in Boston until April 15th as part of their North America tour. Since I love Indochino and I want to make sure you all feel comfortable going to them, I gave them a heads up that some of you might visit one of their traveling tailor stores. All you have to do is tell them you are from Qwear, and they will ask you for your pronouns and preferred language for the fitting. They are are super excited to have you there. Don’t live in Boston? They might visit your city soon. Follow them on Facebook and Twitter for updates.
If you are able to make it, let us know how it goes!