The Tumblr presence of Qwearfashion.com, a Boston-based style blog for queer women, trans people, and the dappers who love them.
For modeling oppurtunies, email Sonny: email@example.com
If you’re an oxford wearing type of queer like me, you’ll be drooling over Androgyny’s three new oxfords shirts, just released for fall!
The shirts feature muted pastels with bold, contrasting details, and range from the youthful teal Dewdrop to the classically sophisticated, blue Morning Fog. All of the new looks feature Androgyny’s unique Signature Fit, combining a more relaxed cut with details specifically tailored to the needs to the curvy ones among us. These shirts blur the lines traditionally drawn between menswear and womenswear.
In a new twist on their Signature Shirts, the Oxfords will also feature a front placket and button-down collars. CEO Melissa Millan says, “We’re excited to have a collection of these quintessentially staple shirts. Oxfords stay relevant no matter the season, and especially as the seasons are changing. Because of that, we even took the inspiration for our new patterns and colors from the changing seasons; the shirts are solid-colored with these bold contrasts, and we think they’ll become more than a few customers’ favorite new shirts.”
Androgyny’s shirts are handcrafted locally in San Francisco, in small, limited-edition batches to ensure a uniqueness to each product and to reflect the individuality of its customers.
Is anyone else finding these colors as dreamy as I am? - Sonny
Last weekend I traveled to NYC to be part of an amazing and historic queer New York Fashion Week event, hosted by Whitney Day Events and DapperQ, at This n’ That in Brooklyn. All my favorite queer designers traveled from around the world to attend and show off their latest apparel. I got to don Androgny’s super soft Limited Addition Anchor’s Away shirt, and Fourteen’s Silk Buttonless Vest with their dark navy tapered pants, soon to be available (will let you know when they are!) My hair was styled by Jenna Drudi, and make up done by Collete Lee Morales.
The crowd was phenomenal. I definitely heard some people screaming my name! Not to mention the models… all butch lovers should take Vitamin C before stepping backstage of this show, because it would be hard to stay upright.
This fashion show was just another reminder of how rapidly the queer fashion scene is shifting. When I started Qwear just two years ago, none of these brands even existed yet! I had no idea that I had gotten in line just in time to report on a huge movement about to take off.
Here are some of my favorite pics from the event. More backstage shots are coming soon! All photos by Erica Camille Photography.
Goldie doing a shirt and Jacket by Charlieboy
Shelia’s got a shirt and vest by Charlieboy
Me in Androgyny’s Limited Addition Anchor’s Away shirt
LK Weiss looked amazing as always in her Saint Harridan suit
Kari with a shirt and jacket by Charlieboy
Me in Fourteen’s Silk Buttonless Vest with their dark navy tapered pants
The whole crew! I got Melissa of Androgyny and Bernadette of Fourteen right behind me.
Thanks to all who contributed to the success of this incredible event! - Sonny
Queers! Two things. Well, three.
1. Blake wrote an article for Autostraddle about the history of dandy fashion, and reclaiming it as a Black queer (or perhaps it doesn’t have to be reclaimed?) Check it out!
2. Remember the amazing shirts and trucker hats I got at the Jack Tar happy hour? They are now available for purchase online! Those shirts are seriously some of my favorites. I wear them all the time. The trucker hat pictured above is also a fabulous Sonny-approved way to bring out the queerbro in you.
If you are around New York City or plan on visiting any time soon, my highest recommendation is our tailoring consultant, Rae (aka The Handsome Butch) with Bindle & Keep! You can e-mail her at Rachel@BindleandKeep.com. I haven’t made anything with her yet myself, but she’s queer and amazing (not to mention, uh, gorgeous) so I’m sure she’d fit you for a fabulous shirt.
This could be you! (from thehandsomebutch.tumblr.com)
If you are not around NYC, and you fit within the S - XL range, I also highly recommend Androgyny. Even though they aren’t custom made, their shirts actually fit me better than any custom made shirt I’ve ever gotten.
I also had a really positive experience with both Ratio Clothing and Blank Label. The email exchange with Eric Powell of Ratio was incredibly in-depth and he took extraordinary care to make sure I got what I needed (and was very up-to-date on queer needs.) It also depends which fabrics and styles you are interested in. Ratio has some amazing new gingham and plaid options that I’m feeling a tad drooly over. However, Blank Label offers more options for collar, placket, cuffs, pockets, and buttons. Ratio also will allow you to send back a shirt for additional alterations as many times as you need; whereas Blank Label offers just one remake.
I don’t have any experience with bespoke women’s shirts, so I don’t have much advice on finding more feminine cuts. But I should add that Androgyny is really cut to look androgynous. Menswear companies like Ratio and Blank Label will have more masculine cuts that emphasize broad shoulders.
Anyone else have reviews to add of these or other custom shirt labels? Add them to the comments!
I came to New York last night for VEER NYC's first fashion show of their curated androgynous clothing collection at the Dalloway. It was almost worth the treck just for the dapper-as-fuck crowd! I didn’t get any good photos of the actual fashion show, but I enjoyed their creative and artsy take on androgynous styles. I’m so excited to see what happens next with them, and hoping it includes some plus sized models. Their collection includes items from Androgyny, Verameat, Kollar Clothing, Claudia Ligari, Riyka, Mörkna, and Sloane & Tate.
OK CUTIE PICS TIME:
With Ry Ry! Glowing like a glow stick.
Teel jacket, yellow tie. Love
Such cuuute TBS
With C. Haber Dash, my new hella dapper queer friend
One of the models showing off their jewelry, all of which I believe they said was from Verameat
Queer Pomp, TBS, AND Bow tie undone?? Ya-uh
With Susan Herr, the founder of dapperQ
Me and VEER
I found an AQ (Adorable Queer) in my favorite J.Crew Boy’s sweater.
Of course, an amazing 48 hours in NYC with all the DQ’s needed to get balanced out by getting gender harassed by an employee when I tried to use the women’s bathroom in the Apple Store. But Apple, I forgive you, because you then allowed me to steal your internet for 2 hours AND charge my computer for the bus ride back. #Killinit
UPDATE 2/15: The profesh photos are up and look amazing!
Those who’ve been following Qwear for a while have seen my array of button-ups. I’ve brought multiple brands to the tailor and have even taken the custom-made route. But this number by Androgyny is one of the best fitting shirts I’ve come across. I’ve enjoyed my other shirts a lot, but when I tried this on I went, “oooooh, that’s what it should feel like!” It didn’t require any adjusting or pulling to fit over my curves. And like most of you, I probably would have never known what was possible in a shirt that could fit my body and gender expression until now.
Due to the high production costs of manufacturing in San Francisco and being a start-up who produces limited editions of each style, Androgyny’s shirts are priced at $125. Though many of you have graciously informed me that you don’t have that kind of cash (I think my favorite line was: “this blog is run by a privileged idiot”), if you do have the means or are saving for a special occasion, your money will be well spent. And, if nothing else, it helps to know that shirts made for androgynous folk are now in existence and will someday be more easily acquired!
The name of the company describes the shirt exactly: it hides my curves without creating a more masculine shape than I want. The bottom comes out to accommodate hips but not in a way that’s at all noticeable. l’m certainly not a shirt construction expert, nor can I account for all the body-types other than my own — but from the way it feels I can tell they’ve done their research on the needs of androgynous people with curves. To top it off, their shirts feature contrasting inner collars, sleeves, and buttonhole thread. All their collars allow ties. Some people may find the colors in their current collection “feminine,” but you know how crazy I go over colorful menswear.
I also appreciate that they button on the right side like men’s shirts. Many dry cleaners charge sometimes up to 3 times as much for women’s shirts, so this will save you money. Pretttty cray. Also, these days maids aren’t expected to dress their Victorian mistresses, so it’s not really necessary to keep the left-side button practice.
This Crisp White Magenta shirt and 4 other colors are available at www.wearandrogyny.com in sizes S-XL. I hope all the dissatisfied andros get the experience of trying on one of these babies at least once. For now, they are only available online, but offer free shipping and free returns. Follow them on Facebook and Twitter for updates on their growing color and size options.
Since there are so many new queer brands starting up, I thought I’d make a list of our favs! If you have the means to do so, I recommend checking these out when considering your next purchase/getting your hair did! You’re especially lucky if you live in San Francisco, New York City, or London. But many of them have online shops.
Marimacho: Brooklyn-based masculine clothing brand for female assigned/identified folks. They have 10 items in their shop including a blazer, suit vest, classic white shirt, bomber jacket, and swim suit.
PHRESH CUTZ: “A spot for queers and friends of all kinds to kick it with like-minded individuals over drinks, snacks, and beats while tightening up their look!” In Brooklyn. (See Autostraddle post about them)
RodeoH (NSFW): Adorable, comfortable harnesses slash cute underwear. Available online and at in-store locations across the globe.
Tomboy Tailors: A retail shop in San Francisco that just opened on Feb 2nd! They have have in-house clothing, custom fittings, a plus line, and shoes for smaller feet. Online store opens in April. (See our post about them.)
Unbound Apparel: Sweet tees and hats to celebrate gender nonconformity. Prices range from $7-15.
Veer NYC: Curated androgynous clothing. No clothes yet, but you can support their Indiegogo campaign here. I recommend the $25 option, because you’ll get a $25 gift certificate when their store opens. Great deal!
Wildfang: Curated tomboy clothes for people with curves. Opening shop on their website in the spring. Join their mailing list for updates, and add them on Facebook and Twitter . (See our post about them.)
If there are any other companies you believe should be on this list, message me!
UPDATED FEB 8: Made wording changes to be more inclusive of MAAB trans* folk looking to wear androgynous clothes.
I hadn’t heard of Fourteen until I ran into long-time Boston Dyke March organizer, Christine Hurley and got to talking about my Passion for Fashion (happens within 3 to 5 seconds.) She introduced me to this new queer wedding attire company, founded by lesbian/queer wedding planner Bernadette Smith. And now after getting the chance to talk with Bernadette and Fourteen fashion designer Marialexandra myself, I’ve become wildly impressed with their efforts to combine creativity and craftwomanship to fill the gaping holes in the world of lesbian and FAAB gender non-conforming formal wear.
There are several queer clothing companies out there now making their mark (Marimacho, The Butch Clothing Company, Saint Harridan, and Androgyny; among others) and each one has their unique offerings. But unlike many of these companies, Fourteen also designs for mid-spectrum folks looking for non-dress options that still embrace their curves. By offering 2 fits options: Standard fit and Boy fit, Fourteen serves a wide range of gender presentations. And each separate is very versatile in terms of how you choose to wear it. Wouldn’t this velvet jacket look also amazing with a billowy blouse?
The team got a head start on research through Bernadette’s years of work as a wedding planner. When they started Fourteen, they conducted many focus groups to ensure satisfying everyone’s needs when it came to fit, style, and varying body types. Marialexandra observed people putting on the clothes to get a sense of how their previous clothing had fallen short of their needs. Most of us, when putting on ill-fitted shirts, tug things here and there to get them to fit right. When the participants tried on Fourteen’s clothes, all their fit problems went away for the first time. (woah, imagine if you didn’t have to tug your shirt down to get it to fit over your hips properly!) Fourteen aims to create well-fitted garments for the whole range of bodies, including those who bind and pack or are post-op.
Available now on their website are a velvet jacket and a Sateen jacket with pockets, each in several classic colors; six vests (one of them has sequins inside!), 2 dress shirts in 2 lengths for untucked and tucked wearing; 3 pants; and 9 pieces of neckwear made to match the garments, available in several sizes to accommodate those with smaller necks and shorter torsos. The designs are edgy, creative, and vintage inspired. It’s clear that designer Marialexandra has a talent for understanding what queers need and want in their formal garments.
One specialty Marialexandra told me about was hidden chest darts. For the boy fit, Fourteen is keeping the sides straight up and down, and using hidden chest darts to leave room in the chest area. This technique is very uncommon, and something none of us have seen on off-the-rack clothing. (Chances are The Butch Clothing Company uses them too, but Shaz won’t give away her secrets!)
As Fourteen continues to get off the ground, they will release more clothing outside of formal wear! Marialexandra is already working on several designs for underwear, binders, and swimwear! All available in about 6 months. And further down the line; maternity clothes! Can’t wait to get my hands on some of these.
(Photo cred: Patty Nash Photography)